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Nancy East

Hiker | Author | Outdoor Educator

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West Highland Way–Day 7

by

Paige profile
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 Day 7–9.5 miles hiked (Glencoe to Kinlochleven)
If the day before was our least favorite day on the trail, this day was an almost unanimous favorite!  The weather turned overnight and we were treated to clear skies after about an hour of rain.  We had a section of trail dubbed “The Devil’s Staircase” ahead of us, so we were especially thankful for the break in the weather. The views climbing to the top were insanely beautiful to watch unfold and the climb was only about a mile.  While rugged, it was doable and never overly steep.  And guess what?  The sun actually exists in Scotland and we finally saw it!
Getting There

Getting There

 

My beautiful girl

My beautiful girl

We reached the top, which just happens to be the highest point on the Way, and reveled in our good fortune of clear weather.  If our trip had been shifted just one day, we’d have climbed to this point in a driving, cold rain with no visibility.  This day made up for every drop of rain we’d experienced the past six.

Family photo

Looks like we have our Christmas card photo for the year!

Blue sky with kids

Blue sky = smiling kids!

Tuck Shop

A “tuck shop” is a small shop selling food, usually pastries or candies. Someone put the trail version of one stocked with all sorts of goodies at the top of the Devil’s Staircase, so of course the kids indulged!

The views on the descent into Kinlochleven were classic Highlands beauty, straight out of a postcard, and before we knew it, we were in town.

Laursen girls

The Laursen girls all look like they stepped out of a trail fashion magazine

Kinlochleven has the reputation of being a dive of a trail town but we thought it deserved more credit. It’s quaint, quiet, and surrounded by stunning scenery. The world’s largest ice climbing gym is housed here too, and it was fun to watch the climbers with their ice axes and crampons, ascending a solid wall of ice.

Yard art

The yard art in Kinlochleven cracked us up (and there was lots of it)!

Kinlochleven

Kinlochleven was a much cuter town than the trail guide led us to believe

Kids playing pool

Finding a pub with a pool table (and that allowed kids) was a treat!

When we checked into our inn, we were expecting over the top service since it was rated 4 stars; however, when we were greeted by a distracted and aloof older man in sweatpants and a dirty t-shirt, I was tempted to make sure we had the right place!  It wasn’t quite what we were expecting, given the service we had received in lesser rated inns along the Way, but we rolled with it!  Our room, filled with over-the-top snacks and drinks, made up for the lackluster reception and we laughed at some of the furnishings which were straight out of the 80s, including the wardrobe that had three pink bathrobes hanging in it!

Robes hanging

I’m still kicking myself that I didn’t get a picture of the kids sporting the bathrobes in our room!

 

Edencoille Inn

Edencoille, our inn for the night.

The next morning, we had a hearty breakfast at the inn, but I made the mistake of venturing into new culinary territory and ordering the locally sourced smoked kipper.  The photo on the menu made it appear similar to Sunburst Trout’s amazing cold-smoked trout, which I could eat by the pound.  This stuff?  Bleh!  It had decent flavor but it was full, and I mean full, of tiny bones!  And it was kinda slimy too.  If you’re in Scotland and you see it on the menu, consider yourself warned!

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Filed Under: West Highland Way

Previous Post: « West Highland Way–Day 6
Next Post: West Highland Way–Day 8 to the finish! »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jeanne

    July 28, 2017 at 2:32 am

    Your pictures and your story make me want to pack my bags right now and fly across the pond to hike–in spite of the rain! What a great adventure!

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